Locavore Trend Alive and Well in Madison
Wisconsin's Capitol a Hot Spot for Locally Produced Food
Aug 12, 2009
One of the best ways to experience a city is through its food. In America’s Dairyland, it’s no surprise that doing so revolves around cheese. Now Wisconsin is known for its cheese, and comments about cheeseheads, but when most people think of Wisconsin cheese they think of the basics; cheddars, Colby’s and other varieties any local supermarket would carry. But foodies take heart, there is oh so much more to Wisconsin fromage and the place to find it is at Fromagination.
Speciality Cheese Shop is a Madison Gem
Located just across from the beautiful state capitol building (where every Saturday one of the country’s largest and best farmers markets takes place) is a little storefront that looks as if it were plucked off the Rue de l'Echelle in Paris.
Owner Ken Monteleone, a former executive with Land’s End, used to wander the streets of Europe and see all the artisanal cheese mongers and wondered why there was nothing like that in Madison.
“We were doing it in Wisconsin, but no one knew about it,” said Monteleone. “I thought there was a void in Madison and I wanted to showcase what was really going on in Wisconsin cheese.”
So two years ago Fromagination was born. Today the shop features nearly 50 cheeses made by small Mom and Pop operations scattered throughout the state. The selection of styles is broad from sheep’s milk cheese, to mixed milk and goat milk cheeses.
Ken and his cheese buyer, Bill are on hand to help guests create the perfect cheese tasting plate, either to enjoy on the sidewalk patio or for a cheese tasting party at home. For a good mix of what Fromagination and Wisconsin cheese have to offer try this plate:
- Pleasant Ridge Reserve—Created by Uplands Cheese this hard, Alpine-style cheese is the most decorated cheese in America. It is cave aged from four to 24 months and has a nutty, caramel flavor.
- Black Sheep Truffle—Produced by Carr Valley Cheese, the most decorated cheesemonger in America this firm pasteurized sheep’s milk cheese has bits of black truffle inside. It is aged for at least six months and is similar in style to an Italian pecorino.
- Bandaged Cheddar—This hard, British farmhouse style cheddar is created by Bleu Mont Dairy. Its big, bold flavor comes from being cave-aged for one to two years.
- Sarvecchio—Crafted by Sartori Foods this hard, dry cheese is inspired by Parmesan. It’s aged for at least two years and has a strong caramel aroma and flavor.
Cheese can be paired with dried fruits, nuts or chocolates available at Fromagination, or if it’s a Saturday, a quick run to the Farmer’s Market will yield fruits, vegetables, breads and meats that would make a perfect lunch.
Fromagination invites a different cheesemonger in each Saturday to speak about his cheese. The store also offers classes in tasting cheese. Fromagination, 12 S. Carroll, 608-255-2430.
More Places to Sample Local Food in Madison
For the ultimate in local food, the Dane County Farmer’s Market is the place to be. Held every Saturday year-round and also on Wednesday’s all summer, the market rims all sides of the state capitol building. It is the largest producer only farmers market in the country.
To see how Wisconsin food blends with ethnic eats, check out Icon Restaurant and Tapas Bar (206 State St. 608-268-0126) on State Street or for a gourmet experience dine at L’Etoile Restaurant (25 N. Pinckney St. 608-251-0500) the establishment that started Madison’s interest in locally produced food.
Stay Near all the Culinary Treats
For a hotel close to shops, restaurants and the farmer’s market, the best bet is the Hilton Madison Monona Terrace (9 E. Wilson St., 608-255-5100).
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